Photography
Travel Guide to
Bryce Canyon National
Park
Amphitheater
This is only a
partial guide to Bryce Canyon National Park. The
full guide is in Photo Traveler's Guide to Southwest
Utah available for
$15.95.
For
more information on this guide or other Photo Traveler
Publications to order Southwest Utah
Bryce Canyon National Park is one of the most
photographically exciting places in the United
States. If you've never seen Bryce Canyon, it is
difficult to describe. It isn't a
"canyon" at all but an amphitheater of
pillars of limestone, eroded into fantastic,
intricate shapes and gloriously colored in shades
of red, yellow, purple, and lavender. Some
pillars are even crowned with pure limestone that
glows like delicate white porcelain. The Indians
had a descriptive name for the area. They called
it "red rock standing like men in a
bowl-shaped canyon."
Getting the Best Picture
Although all the elements for good photography
are here--the interesting shapes and magnificent
color--Bryce is a difficult place to photograph.
Lighting and the time of day make a big
difference. Don't rush to the first overlook at
mid-day and start taking pictures--you need
shadows to give definition to the formations.
When photographing from the rim, limit your
picture-taking to sunrise and the few hours after
and to late afternoon.
Sunrise is a particularly rewarding time to
photograph the formations. Most views face east
toward the rising sun and, from viewpoints, you
can shoot north and south, catching the first
rays of the sun as they turn the rock pinnacles
gold. Sunset, however, is difficult because the
amphitheaters of limestone are on the east side
of a plateau which blocks the light from the sun
long before it sets. Late in the day is still a
good time to photograph Bryce--just plan to be
there a couple of hours before the actual sunset
if you want light on the formations.
Exposure at Bryce is tricky. The high
altitude, reflections, and extreme contrasts can
fool your camera meter, so photographs of Bryce
often look washed out. If you're shooting color
slide film during mid day, you'll want to
underexpose your shots by 2/3 stops. No matter
what film you are using, be sure to bracket.
The formations at Bryce look spectacular when
you are there in person, but when these views are
reduced to a small, two-dimensional picture, they
can look pretty dull. You need some perspective
to give depth to your pictures. Try using some photogenic gnarled limber pines or junipers
that grow along the rim to frame your pictures,
or include a person in your composition. In
addition to panoramic views, use a telephoto to
zoom in on the shape, form, and color of
prominent features.
Most photographers limit their photography to
shooting from the rim, but intriguing pictures
can be taken by walking down into the formations
and shooting up at these fantastically-shaped red
pillars against a deep blue sky. You need not
walk far and several short hikes are mentioned
later. Consider making several trips and
photograph these shapes at various times of day
and from different angles for beautifully
changing images.
Photo Equipment
For overall views from the rim, you'll want a
lens in the 24mm to 35mm range so you can include
some foreground interest. For most rim
photography, however, you'll want to zoom in on
the pattern of the forms, so include a telephoto
in the 200mm to 300mm range. A zoom lens is
indispensable for choosing your composition.
Below the rim you'll want a wide-angle lens in
the 24mm to 35mm area for shooting up at the
formations, and a shorter telephoto in the 70mm
to 200mm range works well for isolating the
shapes of some of the prominent features. A
polarizing filter on all lenses is essential to
filter out the harsh highlights, to give more
saturation to your colors, and to turn the sky a
deep, contrasting blue.
In the low light of sunrise or sunset, you'll
need a tripod. The parking lots are close to all
of the best viewing areas, so a tripod won't be a
burden to you.
As the Seasons Change
Although Bryce Canyon is at 8,000 feet, it's
an all-season park, and the major areas are kept
open through the winter--an excellent time for
beautiful photos of red rocks contrasting with
white snow.
In late summer, thunderstorms pass through and
provide some dramatic skies and lighting. Many
panoramic views, normally not interesting
photographically, become very exciting when the
sky is full of white clouds or when a passing
storm creates an afternoon rainbow. Even fog can
turn the bizarre rocks into delicate ghosts.
There is more than just rocks to photograph at
Bryce. During spring and summer, a hike below the
rim can be rewarded with gorgeous wildflowers.
Early in the mornings and in the evenings, you'll
find mule deer in the meadows along the major
roads. During May and October there are many
migrating birds.
Bryce Amphitheater
Bryce Amphitheater is the heart of Bryce and
where you'll want to spend most of your time.
This is where all the park facilities are located
and where all the best formations and views are
found.
Fairyland Point
Just after you pass the Bryce Canyon National
Park boundary marker, you'll see a road to the
left to Fairyland Point. Most people, in a hurry
to get to the entrance gate, bypass this view,
but it's a good first stop before going to Bryce
Amphitheater. The road is only a short one-mile
detour to the viewing area.
You don't have the grand views of the
formations that you have from the main
amphitheater, but the forms take on fanciful
shapes. An easy, short descent into the delicate
limestone structures where you can take
interesting close-up views of the shapes.
Looking to the northeast is a distinct rock
known as the "Sinking Ship." The trail
eventually goes by this formation, but it's a
long strenuous hike. This is also the beginning
of the Rim Trail that passes all the major
overlooks and ends at Bryce Point, five and
one-half miles away. It's three-mile hike along
the trail to reach the next major overlook at
Sunrise Point.
Visitor Center
As soon as you pass through the entrance gate,
you'll see the Visitor Center on the right- -a
good place to stop. A seven-minute slide
presentation is shown throughout the day telling
you how Bryce Canyon was formed. There are also
some museum exhibits and a bookstore in the
Center. If you're planning to do some extensive
hiking into the canyon, you'll find maps and
additional information here.
Sunrise Point and the Queen's Garden Trail
Sunrise Point is the first of the four major
viewpoints of the Amphitheater, where the
distinctive limestone pillars are the most highly
concentrated. From Sunrise Point you look south
into the Amphitheater, making this, of course, a
good sunrise location. To the north you look back
toward Fairyland Point and the Sinking Ship.
Sunrise Point is the beginning of the Queen's
Garden Trail--the easiest and one of the most
colorful and photographically interesting trails
into the canyon. The round-trip distance is one
and one-half miles and the elevation change is
only 320 feet. If you're not used to hiking, take
your time, especially on the return
trip--remember you're at 8,000 feet. You'll pass
some fascinating shapes and walk through several
tunnels cut into the formations. These tunnels
can be used to frame some of the views, adding a
little variety to your photos. At the end of the
trail is a limestone shape that looks like Queen
Victoria sitting on her throne. Right after the
last tunnel, a trail branches off to the Navajo
Loop Trail covered a bit later. Allow about one
to two hours for this hike.
Sunset Point
This is the most spectacular
view in Bryce. If you have only an hour to spend
in Bryce, spend it photographing here and forget
the rest. From this point you look north toward
Sunrise Point and all the incredible limestone
shapes between, and south toward Bryce Point and
the most spectacular formations in the park. This
is an excellent place to photograph before
sunset. In fact, the best location for pre-sunset
photography is to stand by the sign to the right
of the bulletin board and, using a telephoto
pointed toward Bryce Point, catch the light on
Wall Street, Cathedral, and Organ formations.
The Rim Trail between Sunrise and Sunset
Points is an easy half-mile stroll along a paved
walk, with many benches along the way. The Rim
Trail from Sunset to Inspiration Point is also
one-half mile long and it takes you past a
spectacular section known as the "Silent
City." As you walk along the Rim Trail, look
for interesting trees to frame your views of the
area below.
Return to this location several times during
the day for completely different lighting. The
formation known as Thor's Hammer is a good
subject to focus on at various times of the day
for interesting directional lighting effects.
Navajo Loop Trail
If you have time, the Navajo Loop Trail is
probably the best trail to take into the canyon.
This is one and one-half miles long, but you
should allow about two hours since it is a bit
more strenuous than the Queen's Garden Trail. The
one of the high points along the trail is the
distinctive "Thor's Hammer" that you
can photography from different views as you
descend along the switchbacks. Part of the trail
goes through "Wall Street" where 200-
foot, red limestone walls with fantastic lighting
close in for spectacular wide-angle photography.
At the lower end of Wall Street you find two,
frequently photographed, tall Douglas firs. The
firs tower toward the sky between the canyon
walls, making an excellent wide-angle
composition. Even if you don't take the Navajo
Trail, at least walk a short distance below
"Thor's Hammer."
Copyright 1997,
Photo Traveler Publications. Not to be reprinted,
resold, or redistributed, except with written
permission. You may print a copy for your own
personal use.
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